Friday, August 04, 2006

All Texas

The last few days have been big ones, Texas size days. We started off in Texarkana, staying the night on the Arkansas side, although we drove there on the Texas side. Jonathan and I were both right! How often does that happen when people take opposite sides and both think they're right?

We saw so much in Texas that our Let's Go USA book opens to the Austin page now, unbidden.

Dallas was hot but interesting. We went to the Urban Market for lunch, which is part cafe and part grocery store. We had a delicious, healthy meal (i.e. not fried or barbecued), then took a walking tour of downtown. The I.M. Pei architecture is delightful. We paid our respects at the JFK memorial and spent some time around Dealy Square, looking at the grassy knoll and the Texas School Book Depository Building. It's one thing to read about his death and the conspiracy theories, another to stand there and look around and judge distances and angles. We skipped the conspiracy museum, though, in favor of heading south.

In Waxahachie, we visited Clara, nephew Alex's and niece Krista's grandmother. Jonathan and I had a great time chatting with her. I had never met her before, and it had been many years since Jonathan had seen her.

We rolled into Austin late, hungry and tired of driving. Thankfully, Austin has plenty of late-night hotspots. We picked Ruby's BBQ for dinner, and the food was awesome, flavorful and moist. Oh, and cheap prices, too. After browsing in the huge toy store across the street (also open late), we took to the road again and drove a bit south for the evening.

The next morning, and I wish I could say what day it was, but by this point, the days have blurred together in a mix of good food, road smells, a sweaty back against the car seat, a whole world of memories in every day. Anyway. That day, whatever day it was, we went south to San Antonio. That whole day was one of the most fun-packed of our whole trip. It was also one of the hottest. Walking outside for a few minutes slowed my body and brain down to the speed of molasses.

Once we arrived in San Antonio, we ferreted out Madhatters on Beauregard Street and had the most incredible breakfast. It's known for its tea, so we shared a pot of All Day Breakfast. My breakfast was cardamom and cinnamon tea oatmeal, which was healthy and not too sweet, but oh so tasty.

The Alamo was very intense. I was surprised at how moved I was being there. I didn't know the name of the 16-year-old I was related to who died there, but I saw Jim Bowie's name everywhere, as well as in an exhibit about the Bowie knife. Walking around there, reading about what happened, I felt connected to my roots, something I didn't expect to feel in Texas. History was right there in front of us. Although there were plenty of tourists there, the spirit of the place and its importance in American history was palpable.

San Antonio's Riverwalk is 2.5 miles of paths, beneath the main street area, along the San Antonio River. We found quiet delight in strolling along the river, watching the boats giving tours and enjoying the gardens and historic plaques. After coffee at Sip, a hip little cafe, we slipped over to Market Square for some browsing in the shops.

After a quick bite to eat, a hat shop visit and another stroll along the Riverwalk, we headed back north to New Braunfels, where Schlitterbahn is located. It's a 65-acre waterpark with a Bavarian theme to it. We met Ricky, Crystal's husband, there for an afternoon of water adventures. He was in town in Austin for business.

Schlitterbahn features water from the Comal River. Its tubing rides were especially relaxing and fun, and one we rode actually
dropped us out onto the river itself. It was amazing. The park was named the top waterpark in America by the Travel Channel. It was definitely my favorite. We spent four hours there, grabbing tubes and hopping in the water, sometimes waiting in lines. Eight at night rolled around before we knew it.

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